Sale of Kayaköy guidebook provides art resources for village’s school

The children, Head Teacher, Hasan Şahin and a teacher pose for a photo outside the school entrance with Dean Livesley and Jane Akatay

Not only was Monday 16^th September the first day of term and a chance for the children at Kayaköy First School to get together after the long summer break, it was also a special day for another reason: the youngsters had a surprise visit from Dean Livesley and Jane Akatay, who came to the school bearing a colourful stash of goodies: a range of art resources they were donating to the school, including folders, Play Doh, paints, exercise books and various other goodies, and which had been bought for the children with profits from the sale of ‘A Guide to Kayaköy’, a book they published about the valley and its historic abandoned town. The authors presented the resources to the Head Teacher, Hasan Şahın, and the kindergarten teacher, Ayşegül Küt.

Everyone was delighted and made the most of the occasion by posing for a photograph at the entrance to the school. Although representatives of FIG (Fethiye International Group), and coordinating organisation FETAV, who are the official fundraisers for all charitable work in the Fethiye region, had hoped to be there too, sadly they could not be present. However, FIG’s chair, Jill Erdoğan made the following comment: “As always, FETAV and the FIG team are always very happy to see local schools benefit from fundraising activities. Because of support from FIG and other organisations, Kaya School is now one of the best equipped schools in the area.”

An example of the children’s creative work

Dean and Jane wrote and published ‘A Guide to Kayaköy’ in 2012. The book paints a picture of the valley, its history and the contemporary scene, as well as mapping and describing some of the many wonderful walks in the area. Contributions to the guide were also made by author, Louis de Bernieres, whose novel, ‘Birds Without Wings’ was inspired by the abandoned town, Greek archeologist, Petros Mechtidis and amateur historian Peter Rogers.

So far they have donated 1,000TL from the sale of the book and this was topped up with 100TL from Muzzy, the owner of Muzzy’s Place in the village. He has been keen to support the school now it has reopened.

Muzzy, his two sons and author of the novel ‘Birds Without Wings’, Louis de Bernieres earlier this year in Kayaköy

The head teacher, Hasan Şahın, told Land of Lights: “We now have 27 children on the register and hopes that, in view of the school’s success, the school role will continue to rise. My staff and I are working hard to make the school a success and with local support our facilities are the best around.”

Dean and head teacher, Hasan Şahin, join one of the classes

‘Old boy’, Cem Selcuk, who wanted to make sure that his child had settled on the first day of term said that the facilities had improved beyond recognition since he was a student there back in the mid 1980s. He is happy that his son is going to the school, especially following the many improvements that have been made.

‘Old boy’ Cem with another potential student (in a few years time!)

About the authors:

Dean Livesley, co-author of the guide, lives in Kayaköy and runs a kayaking and adventure tourism company, Sevencapes, as well as writing guidebooks. His latest book is a guide to walking the Carian Trail, a scenic ramble through the beautiful provinces of Muğla and Aydın.

Jane Akatay is a freelance writer, journalist and events organiser: working in Fethiye with Land of Lights, Cultural Connections and Fusion Fethiye.

For more information about A Guide to Kayakoy visit: www.kayakoyguide.com

Sevencapes: www.sevencapes.com

Carian Trail: www.cariantrail.com

Fethiye becomes a musical melting pot

The finale at Fethiye’s World Music Festival

Fethiye, Muğla, recently hosted musicians from around the world when the Mediterranean town held its first World Music Festival as part of the sixth annual Culture and Arts Festival. For the musicians and audience alike it was a resounding success. Organised by the hard working Kültür ve Sanat Günleri team, who operate under the auspices for FETAV (Fethiye’s Arts, Culture and Education Association), preparations took the best part of a year culminated in a rousing finale when all the musicians came together on stage to sign one of the Turkey’s favourite anthems, Samanyolu by Berkant Akgürgen.

Indonesian mime and dance
                                            (Photo: Nichola Chapman)

Scott Jeffers (Traveler)

Between 3rd – 8th May, Fethiye reverberated to the beat of ethnically diverse music with hundreds of its residents rhythmically swaying, clapping their hands and tapping their feet to some glorious, occasionally exotic sounds from Turkey and ten other countries. Saz player and Türküler singer, Ahmet Erarslan, represented Turkey and Fethiye, while musicians and signers joined with him from as far a field as Georgia, Ireland, Bulgaria, Montenegro, USA (Arizona), Britain, Kazakhstan and India, Spain and Indonesia brought their musical traditions and culture to the Beşkaza Square in the heart of Fethiye.

Ahmet Erarslan and Scott Jeffers (Traveler)

Vagabundos de Lujo

Khalilo, a choir from Georgia

The event organizers were stepping into the unknown back in the autumn of 2012 when they sent out a global call to musicians, inviting them to join a festival celebrating traditional music but they need not have been concerned, all the concerts were excellent. Over the course of the festival audiences listened to and saw some phenomenal performances by: violin of Scott Jeffers (Traveler); the magical middle eastern sounds of Mazaj; the maestro guitar duo, Vagabundos De Lujo from Ibiza in the Spanish Balearics; a Irish Céilidh duo, Inu; beautiful signers and musicians, Murager, from Kazakhstan; Indian group Shiv Sadhana Nrutya Sangeet Academy from Gujarat; Rumah Angklung, an Indonesian group; Khalilo, a choir from Georgia, the exceptionally talented Band Montenegro; a vilolinist and accordion player from Montenegro and the traditional lilting tones of FF Trakiika, a group from Bulgaria, entranced and entertained the audiences.

Mazaj – Maren Lueg on Ney and Chas Whittaker on darbuka

Band Montenegro

On Wednesday night the final concert ended with the musicians coming together in a moving interpretation of Samanyolu by Berkant Akgürgen. A famous Turkish musician, sadly he died last year so was not able to hear a unique multicultural version of his famous and much loved song. However, the audience showed their appreciated with a standing ovation.

Murager, from Kazakhstan

Murager, from Kazakhstan

Mustafa Şıkman, chairman of the festival committee, summed up everyone’s feeling with some well chosen words: “Thank you to everyone to came to Fethiye’s first World Music Festival. You have brought the music of the world to Fethiye and have made our town come alive with your talented musical performances and warm displays of friendship. To be honest, we didn’t quite know what to expect when you accepted our invitations but know we have met, listened to your wonderful music and become friends we assure you that next year Fethiye will be proud to welcome you all again when we host an even bigger music festival. Next time we want to include regional music from Turkey as well.”

Céilidh duo, Inu

Shiv Sadhana Nrutya Sangeet Academy from Gujarat

Shiv Sadhana Nrutya Sangeet Academy from Gujarat (Photo: Nichola Chapman)

It has not only been an inspirational event for Fethiye’s community as, according to ney, zurna and saxophone player Maren Lueg and her darbuka playing partner Chas Whittaker, who together form the duo Mazaj, the musicians also experienced Anatolian hospitality, forged new friendships and international contacts. “We have already visited some parts of Turkey, especially Istanbul, but this time have had a truly amazing opportunity get to know the beautiful town of Fethiye. We have met some great Turkish people and have spent time with some great musicians from nine different countries that has given us all insights into each other’s music.”

FF Trakiika, a group from Bulgaria

A multicultural mele: FF Trakiika, a group from Bulgaria joined by other musicians

She continued by saying how the festival had brought the musicians together: “We have also benefitted from this cultural exchange, learnt a lot more about Turkey, a country we already love, as can be seen from our music. Overall we have been overwhelmed and inspired by Fethiye’s hospitality and the friendly and informal atmosphere. I think I can say that we have all been inspired and enriched by this by this experience. Chas and I perform at many festivals and this is one of the few that is not about fame. It has been very down to earth and humbling… and the audiences have been great too.”

Fethiye women’s Zeybek group

The musicians had free time to go on tours of the surrounding sites, including a boat trip around the Gulf of Fethiye. They also visited kayaköy, Saklıkent, Yeşilüzümlü and the ancient sites of Tlos and Cadianda. When they weren’t sight seeing they took the opportunity to join together in some impromptu jamming sessions and all expressed the wish that they would be able to come together in Fethiye again next year.

Scott Jeffers (Traveler)

The Fethiye Culture and Arts Festival started six years ago as a way to introduce local students and school children to the arts. Yunus Nadi, the founder of Turkey’s Cümhüriyet newspaper was born near Fethiye and a Journalism Prize in his memory continues to be a popular part of the festival but now it has become a massive week-long series of events bringing authors, artists and journalists from Turkey and abroad. This year, also for the first time there has been a book fare. In previous years guests have included, Zülfü Livaneli, who last year was awarded the Keys to Fethiye, British author of Birds Without Wings and Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, Louis de Bernières, Hulda Festival (an exhibition of Turkish Sculptor İlhan Koman’s work by his son Ahmet Koman) and highly respected photojournalist, Ali Öz.

For more information visit: www.fethiyefestival.com (Turkish) or visit Facebook page (English and Turkish)

Serdar and his wife, Pinar, dance to the finale at Fethiye’s World Music Festival

Many thanks to Nichola Chapman for giving me permission to use two of her photographs.

Chas Whittaker taps his foot to multicultural rhythms at Fethiye’s first World Music Festival

Cultural Connections forged in southwest Turkey

Kaya Connections, a multicultural international festival of Literature, music, art, food and culture brought hundreds of people to Kaya village, near Fethiye and the six-day programme, from 27^th April to May 3^rd, has been hailed a great success for the organisers, Rebecca Keskin and Jane Akatay.

The festival, described as a celebration of the literature, film, music and food that connects Turkey and Greece, brought together in the same place for the first time British writers, Louis de Bernières, Victoria Hislop, and Jeremy Seal who flew over from the UK, British/Greek author, Sofka Zinovieff (whose heritage is Russian) Turkish film makers, Çağan İrmak, Mustafa Oğuz, Yusuf Karabol and San Fu Maltha from Holland.

Jane Akatay said, “We live in a beautiful part of Turkey that historically has had strong ties with Greece for millennia. We are looking, in a totally positive and non-political way, at the many connections in literature, film food and music. It is of course a work in progress and can evolve over time but if we can attract sponsorship and support at local, national and international levels we firmly believe that Cultural Connections can become a significant annual event. We also hope to be able to take this event across the Aegean to Greece next year.”

This year Tolga and Rebecca Keskin, owners of Günay’s Garden and Izela Restaurant sponsored and hosted the main events, of which Louis de Bernières said,  “This really is a wonderful place for a festival like this and seldom have I been made to feel more welcome. Kayaköy is very special; an ideal venue and one to which I hope to be able to return for many years to come.”

Gamze Aybek and Louis de Bernieres reading passages in Turkish and English from de Bernieres’ novel, Birds Without Wings. (Sam Brooker)

Louis de Bernières is the author of the epic story of an Anatolian village in the troubled years leading up to the founding of the Turkish Republic and a chance visit to Kayaköy some twenty years ago inspired him to write Birds Without Wings. Whilst at the festival, he also met with film producers Yusuf Karabol and San Fu Maltha, to continue discussions about the screenplay that could eventually bring his story to international cinema screens.

This year, Louis de Bernières lead a group of more than 120 people through the deserted ruins of Levissi, a town lived in mainly by Christians until their forced migration to Greece under the terms of the Treaty of Lausanne. At various points he stopped to read passages from his book in English. Gamze Aybek then read the same passage in Turkish.

British Consul for Izmir, Willy Buttigieg and Louis de Bernieres. (Annie Onursan)

Kaya Connections 2013 was opened by Willy Buttigieg, the British Consul for Izmir. Also present was Doğan Şahin who mentioned that the date had a particular significance as the first friendship agreement between Turkey and Greece was signed on the same day, 27^th April 1938.

Rebecca Keskin and Doğan Şahin

This was followed by a screening of Çağan İrmak’s film, ‘My Grandfather’s People’, a groundbreaking and sensitive film, in which he shows the problems faced by his own family’s experiences in the population exchange. Following the film the audience were able to ask İrmak questions.

Çağan İrmak and Jane Akatay

The second day opened to an eclectic handicraft and local produce fair, organised by the Travel Foundation, and the Taste of Fethiye team, Vicky Erdoğan and Şemsi Toprak.

Louis at the Taste of Fethiye stall

Victoria Hislop, author of several novels including, The Island and The Thread, spoke in front of an attentive audience of her passion for Greece and Turkey.

Victoria Hislop

Sofka Zinovieff’s, author of The House on Paradise Street talked about her book and experiences of living in the Greek capital. The novels have a common thread incorporating the themes, elements and events surrounding the 1923 population exchange and the profound and long lasting effects it had on Greece, Turkey and the individuals involved. Commenting on Kaya Connections 2013 she said it was, “Kaya Connections has provided a perfect opportunity to people together in delightful surroundings. For all of us the relaxed, informal atmosphere has been very pleasant and something the organisers should try to maintain for future events.”

Sofka Zinovieff

Sofka Zinovieff

The final two literary events were talks given by amateur historian and Turcophile Peter Rogers on the earliest visitors to Kayaköy and British writer and journalist, Jeremy Seal, whose amusing and informative description of his research and travels for his latest book about the historic Buyuk Menderes river, Meander: travels from east to west along a Turkish river, provided an excellent way to draw to a close the literary section of the festival.

Jeremy Seal and Peter Rogers at Günay’s Garden

Jeremy Seal

One of Isabel Cordes’ paintings of the “Rum everleri” in Kayaköy.

There were cultural connections through art too. At Günay’s Garden there was a display of work by the Iranian artist Parisa Agahi and an exhibition of paintings by Dutch born artist Isabel Cordes opened at Birol Ganioğlu’s restaurant, Sarnıç a restored example of the original “Rum eveleri” (Orthodox Christians’ houses) in Levissi.

Sarnıç Restaurant

A concert was held in Kaya Köyü First School, hosted by the headmaster and Muhtar. Students from the Kaya School, Kibele Dance school and Ata Özel School danced followed by ney, saxophone and darbuka music from Maren Lueg and Chas Whitaker, saz player Ahmet Erarslan, bağlama player Hasan Kal and Ankara based sextet, Grup Egeli.

Ata School

Kaya First School

Kaya First School

Kibele Sanat Evi

Chas and Maren – Mazaj

Grup Egeli

Hasan Kal

Ahmet Erarslan

The writers were also able to explore the region; Louis and Sofka shopped in Fethiye’s famous Tuesday market before relaxing on the luxury catamaran, Catch Me, skippered by Can İnanır. Meanwhile, Victoria Hislop chose a more active way to see the countryside when she paraglided from the summit of Ölüdeniz’s Babdağ with leading paragliding company, Sky Sports.

Victoria Hislop on the summit of Babadağ

Victoria Hislop ready to paraglide from Babadağ!

Victoria in the air

Victoria, Max and Jane with their feet back on the ground!

On landing she told her tandem pilot Hasan, that she thoroughly enjoyed the experience of seeing Turkey from more than 2000 metres and hoped to return soon for another go.

On Wednesday Sofka Zinovieff had lunchat Şaka Restaurant with a group of women who live in Fethiye.

Lunch with Sofka

Finally, on Thursday, Günay’s Garden was transformed into a centre for traditional crafts: workshops including carpet and dastar weaving, ebru and felt making. Sitting in a massive, shady Köşk people were able to try their hand at these age-old Anatolian crafts. There was also a display of photographs from the Fethiye Photography Club.

Fethiye Photography Club’s show of photos

Kaya Connections 2013 has always supported projects in Kayaköy, which would not have been possible without the help of FIG (Fethiye International Group) helped to provide some much needed equipment for the local school. Other sponsors included the London office of the Turkish Ministry of Tourism and Culture, The Travel Foundation, (a British not for profit organisation) that is currently running a sustainable tourism project, Fethiye Lezzeti, in the area and Can and Cath İnanır, founder of Dalaman Cars and sail Turkey. Doluca wines and Mehmet Cömert’s delicious olive oil from Ayvalık added some delicious Mediterranean ingredients to the festival.

Many thanks to Rosie Simpson and everyone else for their wonderful photographs.

For more information visit:

www.culturalconnectionsfestival.com

www.mehmetcomert.net

http://www.saatchionline.com/Parisa

http://www.winesofturkey.org/doluca-2

http://isabellecordes.com

www.gunaysgarden.com

http://www.thetravelfoundation.org.uk

http://www.dalamancars.com

http://sailturkey.co.uk

http://www.skysports-turkey.com

The last supper…